Screamin Eagle Super Tuner Pro Maps

Genuine Harley Davidson Screamin Eagle Super Tuner. Suitable for use on all EFI bike from 2001-up. TUNER IS WORKING WITH ALL HARLEY DAVIDSON MODELS. Tuner are Pro version. Tuner case may have few scre. Permits downloading calibrations with the Street Tuner and Super Tuner software. '11-later Softail®, '14-later Touring and '14-later Trike models. Screamin' Eagle performance upgrades for FLSB are 49-state US EPA approved. Pending approval for use in California. Harley-Davidson® Screamin' Eagle® Pro Street Tuner.

1. Vance And Hines
2. Screamin Eagle Super Tuner Pro Maps Online

How to do a Smart tune with a SEPSTCoupla notes before we get started:The HD documentation and the SEPST software interface are notoriously poor. So, I thought I’d write a simple-ish step-by-step guide for newbies.This is about using the Screamin’ Eagle Pro Super Tuner, not other models like the SERT or TTS.As well as the SEPST’s VCI interface box itself, you will also need the separately purchased software and interface leads. Available at your local dealer or online.You can use Smart tune with a dyno or on its own – I’ll be covering using it without a dyno. You won’t get perfect results this way but it’ll be pretty darn good.Why Smart Tune?When you swap out the hardware on a Harley you get changes in the flow of air and fuel. Using Smart tune you can get the bike to tune itself to something close to the optimal air fuel ratios, these having been altered by a change in air cleaner, exhaust, throttle body, cams, etc.SummaryI’ll cover:.Loading a base calibration.Recording data.Using Smart tune to change the base calibration.Reflashing the ECU with the changed calibrationLoading a base calibration (AKA “map”)I’m assuming you know enough to install the SEPST software and start it. It comes with instructions for this. Note: this whole thing is much easier using a laptop because you can get it near your bike.You need the SEPST software in 'Tuning mode: Advanced' to do this (setup option).1.Once you have the main SEPST screen up, select “Tuning” (the tuning fork icon).2.Hit “Manually Select File” and navigate to the appropriate directory where the software installed the canned maps (.dt0 files).

This is typically in “C:Program DataSuper TunerDelphiTuning FilesBig Twins”. You will need to plough through a long list of maps. The details for the map will be displayed if you click on a file name.3.Select the map that most closely matches your hardware. For instance, if you have a stage 2 Fat Bob with SE204 cams then you’d want the 176ST002.dt0 map. Unfortunately, HD doesn’t supply maps for non-Harley hardware so if you have non-Harley hardware then it’s a matter of making the closest guess. Generally, the stage 1 maps are fine for any stage 1 hardware; after that it gets tricky.Connecting the VCI to your bike and laptop4.Turn off the bike.5.Pull off the battery cover on the left side of the bike.

Here you will find an oblong grey connector with a black rubber bung in the end. Sorry for resurrecting such an old thread, but it seemed the perfect place to ask:As I understand it, a smart tune sets all the AFR values to the magic 'closed loop' value of 14.6 and then uses the closed-loop feedback observations during the run to calculate the VE at each point in the map. The idea being that when the values are changed to something other than 14.6, it can use the VE values discovered using the O2 sensors at 14.6 to calculate the correct injection values to get the desired AFR in open-loop.My question is; when you upload a calibration for smart-tuning, as well as resetting all (most?) of the AFR values to 14.6 (closed-loop setting), does it also reset the CLB values? I would hope so, because otherwise it will calculating the VE values assuming that it is measuring 14.6 but is actually measuring something else entirely (let's assuming lower).

So if it is actually running richer in closed-loop during smart-tune, the VE values will be higher than they should be. So when I set a conservative open-loop AFR value of say 14.5, the too-high VE value will mean that my actual realised AFR will be again considerably less than the desired 14.5.So in order for the open-loop operation to reflect the AFR values I have put in the table correctly, and CLB to only affect the realised AFR during closed-loop, should I manually reset my CLB values before starting a smart-tune, or is that all taken care of by the software?EDIT: Also, I haven't seen much in the way of research into what the minimum safe idle RPM is. Any pointers? The more opportunities for lowering engine temp at the lights in central London the better!EDIT2: And another thing: I know that you have to leave the ignition and run switch on at the end of a smart-tune run. But does the engine need to be running? Can I pull up at home and then (for example) use the stand sensor whilst in gear to kill the engine without turning the run switch off?EDIT3: Ah. In case others are wondering, I suspect the reason why it retards the timing during smart-tunes is to avoid excessive detonation when running so lean.

I'm wondering what effect this has on the VE values it comes up with. Whilst waiting for any useful replies, I've done some more research:It looks like the most recent version of the software actually 'hides away' the CLB table and instead will allow you to set lower AFR values and still flag them as 'closed loop'. That being the case, these should work as I expect. I'll get my wallet out.My bike idles at 1k. I've seen some research that suggests that as long as you are above 900rpm, you are OK from a battery load point of view.

(At 900rpm, the battery voltage drops off, so the load is overwhelming the alternator.) But I'd still like to know if an idle RPM of 950rpm (say) is enough to keep the oil moving. It's only a /little/ under 1k, so I'm assuming it's going to be fine.New questions:Does anybody ever try to tune the timing without a dyno?

Can it be done (reliably/safely)? I'm assuming that if the optimum detonation is around 20deg ATDC, and that the knock sensor is only detecting detonation from BTDC thru very shortly afterwards, it is difficult to use the knock sensor to find the optimum point?Also, I've seen mentioned on hdforums.com a product called MyTune (MyTune - Harley Davidson EFI Tuning Software for Super Tuner (SEST), Race Tuner (SERT), TTS and TwinScan II+ (It apparently helps with setting up the calibration. But I can't see how, specifically. Apparently it can interpret the knock retardation and come up with timing improvements. But if I'm not trying to aggressively improve the timing, are there any other benefits?

How about when it comes to smart-tuning? Can it improve the VE table better or faster than the SEPST smart-tune alone?Thanks again for any help. Sorry for resurrecting such an old thread, but it seemed the perfect place to ask:As I understand it, a smart tune sets all the AFR values to the magic 'closed loop' value of 14.6 and then uses the closed-loop feedback observations during the run to calculate the VE at each point in the map. The idea being that when the values are changed to something other than 14.6, it can use the VE values discovered using the O2 sensors at 14.6 to calculate the correct injection values to get the desired AFR in open-loop.My question is; when you upload a calibration for smart-tuning, as well as resetting all (most?) of the AFR values to 14.6 (closed-loop setting), does it also reset the CLB values? I would hope so, because otherwise it will calculating the VE values assuming that it is measuring 14.6 but is actually measuring something else entirely (let's assuming lower).

So if it is actually running richer in closed-loop during smart-tune, the VE values will be higher than they should be. So when I set a conservative open-loop AFR value of say 14.5, the too-high VE value will mean that my actual realised AFR will be again considerably less than the desired 14.5.So in order for the open-loop operation to reflect the AFR values I have put in the table correctly, and CLB to only affect the realised AFR during closed-loop, should I manually reset my CLB values before starting a smart-tune, or is that all taken care of by the software?A question I asked myself a while ago too.Afraid I don't have an answer. What I have read on that there Interweb is conflicting. Some have said you do need to set the CLBs to 450, others have said you do not as Smart Tune mode handles that.My take is that if you had to do this then the manual would tell you to do so. It doesn't.Best I can offer.EDIT: Also, I haven't seen much in the way of research into what the minimum safe idle RPM is. Any pointers? The more opportunities for lowering engine temp at the lights in central London the better!I have mine at 976 and it feels fine.

I am probably going to take it up one notch to 984 though, occasionally makes my teeth chatter at lights at 976.EDIT2: And another thing: I know that you have to leave the ignition and run switch on at the end of a smart-tune run. But does the engine need to be running? Can I pull up at home and then (for example) use the stand sensor whilst in gear to kill the engine without turning the run switch off?Again - dunno. I strap the SEPST orange box to the bike by the battery cover and so its only a matter of leaning down and pressing the button, so its not really a problem for me.EDIT3: Ah. In case others are wondering, I suspect the reason why it retards the timing during smart-tunes is to avoid excessive detonation when running so lean.

I'm wondering what effect this has on the VE values it comes up with. And to stop the anti-knock kicking in a messing things up. Shouldn't think it would alter the AFR readings it takes too much. It looks like the most recent version of the software actually 'hides away' the CLB table and instead will allow you to set lower AFR values and still flag them as 'closed loop'.

Vance And Hines

That being the case, these should work as I expect. I'll get my wallet out.Ah, tried that myself and got the 2013 software. Didn't work.The newer ECUs (2013+ models?) have lambda calibrations as opposed to AFR calibrations. So, instead of tuning around an AFR of 14.6, you tune around a lambda of 1.0. This is so that it automatically accounts for different fuels where the AFRs of lambda are different e.g. Pure petrol versus E10.If you don't have the right ECU then you don't get to use the lambda calibrations and it's these that have the ability to set the AFR directly for closed loop rather than needing the frig of CLB tables.Does anybody ever try to tune the timing without a dyno? Can it be done (reliably/safely)?

I'm assuming that if the optimum detonation is around 20deg ATDC, and that the knock sensor is only detecting detonation from BTDC thru very shortly afterwards, it is difficult to use the knock sensor to find the optimum point?I spent a while last summer messing with this. I adjusted the advance a couple of degrees across the piece three times and recorded data after each change. I was looking for when I got more knocking.Didn't have a lot of luck. Hi, bought myself a super tuner and leads last week,as a replacement for my Xied leads, which I was fairly happy with really but could not resist the tuner path.Followed Foxsters guide for smart tuning after loading the canned map and did my first smart tune run today. Very interesting stuff and the bike is running well.Hit the interpolate button also which highlighted a few cells extra by the looks of it.The only thing I was very uncertain on is the recording time maximum,the Harley info says 15 mins which I exceeded with a file size after downloading from the VCI of something like 88mb, anyone got much bigger file size by running for longer?Dave. Foxster,Thanks for the guide.I got the middle cells mostly as per your tutorial,thought i would have got more high end ones by the way i rode it for a couple mins!Still will do more probably in the spring now.Think this will be a whole hobby by itself.justifying the cost you see.DaveI keep meaning to update this with some newer functionality of the SEPST.What you can do is leave a laptop plugged into the bike whilst doing your SmartTune run and display the data as its being collected.

This is really, I suppose, for data collection on the dyno. But I've got a little 7' display that I can fasten to a RAM mount on my 'bars and connect it to my laptop in a saddle bag.The huge advantage of this is that the cells are displayed during data collection and they change colour as you hit them. So, instead of riding randomly and hoping you hit some cells, you can actually tell when you have hit some cells and can then actively try to hit some others, like the high ones you are missing. Foxster, thank you very much for your post.

I used it, step by step, for successfully reprogramming my 2010 FXDWG. Your guide is very accurate.

Much more than any Youtube video tutorial.Unfortunately I realized too late that I bought the Street Performance Tuner and not the PRO Super Tuner:A:Not a terrible issue because I had in mind to just tune the air/fuel ratio. But, as you know, appetite comes with eating, and now I want to lower the idle that is available only on PRO Super Tuner.Now the question: do you know if there is any way to reset my 'old' Street Performance Tuner so I can sell it to another biker? I googled a while but found nothing.Thanks for your helpEmilio. Hi Mags -Here's what you need to do to display and record the data live:1.Put the bike on the dyno, warm it up and then shut it down.2.Connect your laptop to the VCI and the VCI to the bike.

Turn the ignition on but don't run the bike yet.3.In the SEPST software click the Toolbox icon at the top, then Data on the left.4.Select the Smart Tune Live tab rather than the default Data Items tab.5.Click the Record button.6.Run the engine and work through the gears at various engine speeds and throttle openings. As you hit cells they will go from red to light green to dark green as more accurate data is gathered. There will be some cells you can’t get – don’t worry about that – get as many of the middle cells as you can where you do your normal riding.7.When you have all the data you need click Stop and save the data before you turn the bike off.8.Process the data the same as in the previous guide.You can either:Make multiple data collection runs and then load all the data files and calculate and apply VE changes in one goOr you can do one file at a time and incrementally apply changes, as long as do each to the current live file from the VCI i.e. Don't get a data file and apply it to the base map, upload that and repeat as then only the data from the last file will be used. After you select 'smart tune' the idea improvements this calibration in certain approaches to accomplish the task involving determining VE kitchen table adjustments in the future that has a files log obtained from which 'smart tune'-enabled calibration. This calibration, any time 'smart tune' may be chosen just before launching the idea for the ECM isn't what you long for to become operating all the time, it really is only reserved for uses involving gathering which files then.Umm - Google translate?:smile:I think I know what you mean.

Yes, you only want smart tune ticked when you are recording data. After that you need to flash a new map (or revert to the original one) and make sure that smart tune is not ticked. Otherwise you will have poor performance from the bike and it will run hot because the AFR will be set to 14.6:1 at all times.

Hey Foxster,Much respect for the write up. I got a SEPST & I've been looking into the SEPST & its 'Smart tune' feature plus info on loading a 'Base Map' for a while before I got the balls to do it. Even though I'm very good on a computer I didn't want to stuff up a $20k bike engine.

This EFI stuff freaked me out (due to my local dealer feeding me s@!t about playing with the SEPST settings).To load a Base Map only took 10 minutes, if that. My local HD dealer wanted $100 (AUD) to do it for me. Your write up gave me the balls to do it mate & it saved me a whole bunch of money going to the STEALER.

Screamin Eagle Super Tuner Pro Maps Online

I still cannot believe they wanted to charge me $600 per hour for a simple job. Bloody criminal.It was so simple to do it myself. Although the training info from HD was very helpful at the starting points it stuffed up at the end, in my opinion (I didn't follow the TRAINNING VIDS, I choose to go for what you said from point 38). Your point from SECTION 38 of your write up was simple & WORKED. You really smashed it with this write up mate:). My bike runs sweet after 2 data runs & I'm doing more data runs. It has more power since I followed your tutorial.CheersPS: I'm from Oz & if your ever in my country let me know, I'm in South Australia.

I owe you a few beers & a tour of my state.

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